Flood Preparedness and Response

STRATEGIES FOR FAMILIES

BE PREPARED

¨ Find out if you live in a flood prone area. If you are new to the area, ask your local public works or emergency government office about local flood history. Ask whether your property is above or below the flood stage water level.

¨ If you live in a frequently flooded area, stockpile emergency building materials. These include plywood, plastic sheeting, lumber, nails, hammer, saw, pry bar, shovels and sandbags.

¨ Plan and practice an evacuation route. Contact your local emergency government office or local American Red Cross chapter for a copy of the community flood evacuation plan. This plan should include information on the safest routes to shelters. Individuals living in flash flood areas should have several alternate routes to higher ground.

¨ Have emergency supplies on hand. a) Flashlights and extra batteries b) Portable battery-operated radio and extra batteries c) First-aid kit and manual; essential medicines d) Emergency food, water, cooking equipment, can opener e) Cash and credit cards

¨ Develop an emergency communication plan. In case family members are separated during a disaster because of work or school, choose a long-distance relative or friend who can serve as the “family contact.” After a disaster, it is often easier to call long-distance than to place a local call. Make sure everyone in the family knows the name, address and phone number of the contact person.

¨ Make sure that all family members know how to respond after a flood or flash flood. Teach family members how to turn off gas, electricity and water; local authorities may request that you do so during a flood. Teach children how and when to call 911, police and fire, and which radio station to tune to for emergency information.

¨ Keep the car fueled. Stations may not be able to operate because of lack of electricity.

¨ Learn about the National Flood Insurance Program. Most Wisconsin communities participate in this program, which offers residents flood insurance. (See the fact sheet “Insurance Coverage and Making a Claim.”) Regular homeowner's insurance does not cover flood damage.

DURING A FLOOD

¨ Listen to the radio for further information.

¨ Fill bathtubs, sinks and jugs with clean water in case water becomes contaminated.

¨ Bring outdoor belongings, such as patio furniture, indoors.

¨ Move valuable household possessions to the upper floors or to safe ground if time permits.

¨ If you are instructed by authorities, turn off all utilities at the main power switch and close the main gas valve.

¨ Join with neighbors and volunteers to put sandbags or other protection in place. Stack sandbags away from the outside walls of houses to prevent floodwaters from entering.

¨ Do not attempt to walk through moving floodwaters. If they are moving fast enough, water one foot deep can sweep you off your feet.

¨ Do not attempt to drive over a flooded road. Turn around and go another way.

DURING AN EVACUATION

¨ Listen to the radio for evacuation instructions. If advised to evacuate, do so immediately. Evacuation is much simpler and safer before floodwaters become too deep for ordinary vehicles to drive through.

¨ Follow recommended evacuation routes — shortcuts may be blocked.

AFTER A FLOOD

Don't return home until authorities have indicated it is safe. When entering buildings, use extreme caution. Potential hazards include:

¨ Gas leaks. Leave your home immediately and call the gas company if you smell the putrid odor of leaking gas. Lanterns, torches, electrical sparks and cigarettes could cause an explosive fire if there is a leak. Do not turn on any light switches.

¨ Electrocution. Wear rubber gloves and rubber-soled shoes to avoid electrocution. Do not turn on any lights or appliances if the house has been flooded. Turn off the electricity when checking electrical circuits and equipment or when checking a flooded basement.

¨ Structural damage. Watch for falling debris and the possibility of collapsing ceilings and basement walls.

¨ Food and water. Do not use water or eat food that has come in contact with floodwaters.

Preparing to Evacuate Your Farm

SAFETY MEASURES WHEN FLOODING IS EXPECTED

LONG-RANGE PREPARATION

Take these precautions if flooding is common to your area or anticipated this season:

¨ Create an emergency plan of action, considering such things as areas of high ground for animal relocation, temporary milking facilities and approval to use them, equipment relocation and safe pesticide storage.

¨ Be sure cattle are properly immunized before being exposed to floodwaters.

¨ Arrange or be aware of standby services for emergency milk pick-up.

¨ Have a plan for moving grain out of reach of floodwaters.

¨ Provide riprap on banks of earthen manure storages where flowing water may erode berms.

SHORT-TERM PREPARATION

If time is available, take the following precautions:

¨ Move machinery, feed, grain, pesticides and herbicides to a higher elevation. If you have a two-story barn, the upper level makes a good temporary storage facility.

¨ Open gates so livestock can escape high water.

¨ If water is rising, try to drive stock through water free of obstructions. Grazing animals swim well, but the greatest problem for them are fences and other obstacles. Long swims through calm water are safer than short swims through a swift current.

¨ Leave building doors and windows open at least 2 inches to equalize pressure and help prevent buildings from shifting.

¨ If possible, move motors and portable electric equipment to a dry location.

¨ Disconnect electric power to all buildings which may be flooded. If in doubt about how to disconnect power, call your utility company.

¨ Tie down lumber, logs, irrigation pipes, fuel tanks and other loose equipment or material. Secondary containment is another possibility for fuel tanks, as well as pesticide storage.

¨ To keep surface water out of your well, use materials such as heavy plastic and duct tape to seal the well cap and top of the well casing.

Ø If you live in an area prone to flooding or if flooding has been anticipated for some time, have an emergency plan for evacuation. It should include such considerations as family safety, equipment safety, livestock relocation and temporary milking facilities.

Ø When flooding is hours or minutes away, keep your priorities straight. Ensure family safety first. Be certain you have enough time to get to higher ground before access is cut off. If you have time before receiving an evacuation order, a number of precautions may help you protect your property and livestock.

Pesticide Storage Concerns During a Flood

PREVENTION AND EMERGENCY RESPONSE

PREVENTION

¨ Choose a safe location. If at all possible, locate pesticides in an area where flooding is not likely. A good location will be downwind and downhill from sensitive areas, such as homes and play areas, ponds or streams.

¨ Update your pesticide storage design. Contact your local Extension agent or the Midwest Plan Service for modern pesticide storage plans. Safety is a major criterion in new designs, as well as efficiency for farmers. Features may include a mixing and loading pad, a drainage system to collect contaminated runoff, a worker safety area and a separate area for your personal protective clothing and equipment.

¨ Keep pesticide storage to a minimum. The fewer pesticides on site, the less you have to worry about. Consider the following:

a) Contract to have pesticides applied. This eliminates storage and most liability concerns. b) Clean out existing inventories. If a pesticide is still registered for use, give it to a producer who can legally use it. If it is no longer registered, dispose of it at a county Agricultural Clean Sweep program. c) Purchase only enough pesticide for a single season.

¨ Take extra care with water-permeable containers. Dry formulations packed in paper bags, fiber drums, cardboard boxes or similar containers should be stored on metal shelves. Do not store liquid pesticides on shelves above dry formulations.

¨ If flooding is imminent, move pesticides (especially those in unsealed or water-permeable containers) to a higher storage location. Use caution in moving containers — wear protective gear as necessary.

¨ Develop an emergency response plan in case of a leak, spill or fire.

Because of hazardous substances on you farm, you may be required to develop a plan under the Superfund Amendments Reauthorization Act (SARA) Title III. SARA requires farmers who have any of 360 extremely hazardous substances at 500 pounds or the threshold planning quantity to alert the State Emergency Response Board (SERB) with a Planning Notification Fee Statement. An off-site plan identifying the substances and their location on the farm must be developed with final plan copies sent to the local fire department, your Local Emergency Planning Committee (LEPC) and SERB. Contact the Wisconsin Division of Emergency Government for more information.

Ø Safe pesticide storage is of critical importance in both everyday and disaster situations. Not only can improperly stored pesticides pose significant hazards to humans, but they can do great harm to the environment, including surface water and groundwater contamination. Combined with floodwaters, pesticides can create a widespread health problem by threatening drinking supplies.

Ø For all of these reasons, take preventive measures to minimize storage quantities and potential exposure to floodwaters. Take extra precautions if you live in a floodplain or expect flooding. If flooding of pesticides occurs, be sure you follow safe, legal methods for emergency response, containment and clean-up.

Ø WATCH FOR PESTICIDE POISONING

Ø Be aware of any illness arising after handling pesticides or pesticide wastes. Acute symptoms of poisoning frequently include headache, nausea, diarrhea, visual disturbances, excessive salivation or sweating, difficulty in breathing, weakness, tremors or convulsions. Acute symptoms usually appear immediately or within a few hours after exposure. See a doctor immediately or contact your local poison control center if symptoms appear.

IF FLOODING HAS OCCURRED

If you suspect flooding of pesticide storage areas, use great caution in investigating the immediate area — floodwaters may be contaminated with pesticides. Wear appropriate protective clothing, particularly safety boots, to avoid exposure.

If a release of pesticides has occurred, you are required by the Wisconsin Spill Law to notify local and state authorities. Local authorities include your Local Emergency Planning Committee. You can meet state reporting requirements by calling the Wisconsin Division of Emergency Government Spill Hotline at (800) 943-0003. This hotline is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The duty officer at the Spill Hotline or your LEPC can help you determine if federal notification is needed.

Emergency hotline personnel will gather information about the pesticide release and make response decisions. Emergency response professionals in your area will be notified to serve as the first responders to the flood site, as necessary. Some possible scenarios:

¨ For minimal flooding or leakage from paper containers, officials may provide you with specific clean-up instructions. For example, you may be asked to place the water-damaged pesticide into a secondary waste container and to dispose of it at the next Agricultural Clean Sweep event.

¨ If moderate flooding has occurred, containment and clean-up may be feasible. Area emergency response professionals may be sent to the site. Technical guidance from the DNR and the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection will be provided, as necessary.

¨ If major flooding has already occurred, containment may be impossible and clean-up minimal. Check your storage inventory to determine if product is missing. If so, inform your LEPC about types of pesticides and approximate amounts removed by floodwaters.

CONTAIN THE AREA

Take steps to prevent further release of the pesticides if possible and feasible. Put smaller containers that are leaking into larger containers. Wear protective clothing and equipment so you do not needlessly expose yourself to the material in the process of stopping the spill.

At the same time the leak is being controlled, contain the spill material to the area; if possible, construct a dam to prevent the chemical from spreading.

Building Dikes to Prevent Flooding

HOW TO FILL AND POSITION SANDBAGS

SITE SELECTION

Select the site for the dike, making the best use of natural land features to keep it as short and low as possible. Avoid trees or other obstructions which would weaken the structure. Do not build the dike against a basement wall. Leave about 8 feet of space to maneuver between the dike and buildings. Remove ice and snow, down to the bare ground if possible, from the strip of land you've selected.

SANDBAG NEEDS

The number of bags required for 100 linear feet of dike is as follows:

¨ 800 bags for 1-foot-high dike

¨ 2,000 bags for 2-foot-high dike

¨ 3,400 bags for 3- foot-high dike

FILLING AND POSITIONING SANDBAGS

See diagrams on the back side. If you are building the dike on a lawn you may omit the bonding trench shown in the diagram on Stacking Sandbags.

¨ Fill bags approximately half full of clay, silt or sand. Do not tie.

¨ Alternate direction of bags with bottom layer lengthwise of dike. Lap unfilled portion under next bag.

¨ Tamp thoroughly in place.

¨ Build the dike three times as wide as high. For example, if the height is 3 feet, make the base 9 feet.

SEALING THE DIKE

Seal the finished dike to increase its water tightness. To seal the dike:

¨ Spread a layer of earth or sand 1 inch deep and about 1 foot wide along the bottom of the dike on the water side.

¨ Lay polyethylene plastic sheeting so the bottom edge extends 1 foot beyond the bottom edge of the dike over the loose dirt. The upper edge should extend over the top of the dike. This sheeting is available from construction supply firms, lumberyards and farm stores. It should be about 6 mils thick. It comes in 100-foot rolls and is 8 or 10 feet wide.

Ø Standing water from melting snow or heavy rains can flood basements and damage yards, wells, feed supplies, machinery and other property. Flooding is more apt to occur in areas with poor surface drainage, malfunctioning drainage systems or ice dams.

Ø A 1- to 3-foot-high sandbag or earth dike offers protection from shallow flooding (water depth less than 3 feet). Contact a construction firm, lumberyard or your county emergency government office for information on where to obtain sandbags.

¨ Lay the plastic sheeting down very loosely. The pressure of the water will then make the plastic conform easily with the sandbag surface. If the plastic is stretched too tightly, the water force could puncture it.

¨ Place a row of tightly fitting sandbags on the bottom edge of the plastic to form a watertight seal along the water side.

¨ Place sandbags at about 6 foot intervals to hold down the top edge of the plastic. Place boards or dirt between these sandbags to prevent winds from disturbing the plastic. As you work, avoid puncturing the plastic with sharp objects or by walking on it.

HOW TO FILL AND LAP SANDBAGS

Protecting Livestock During a Flood

GUIDELINES FOR SAFE SHELTER AND EVACUATION

KEEPING LIVESTOCK HIGH AND DRY

In broad, level flood plains where floodwaters are seldom deeper than 3 or 4 feet, you may need to construct mounds of soil on which livestock can stay until floodwaters recede. Try to locate the mounds where they will not be washed away by fast-flowing water.

THINK ESSENTIALS, SAFETY IN BARNS

¨ Provide feed and water. Water is essential. Thirsty animals will try to break out to get to floodwaters. If clean water is in short supply, limit feed intake.

¨ If animals are housed with machinery, fasten bales of straw in front of sharp edges and protruding parts such as cutter bars or crank handles. (Do not use hay, because animals will eat it.) Try to cover wooden paddle wheels on combines or choppers, since these parts can be dangerous.

¨ Block off narrow passageways where animals would be unable to turn around. A few heavy animals in a narrow dead end can be dangerous both to themselves and the building.

¨ Be absolutely certain that herbicides, pesticides and treated seeds are not even remotely accessible to livestock, and are stored where floodwater will not contaminate livestock feed or water.

¨ Turn off electricity at the main switch. Livestock could damage electric fixtures, causing fires or electrocutions.

¨ If there is a possibility that dairy barns may become inundated, drive cattle out of the barn. During rapid rise of water, cattle often refuse to leave the barn and may drown inside if the water rises high enough. For this reason, begin evacuation measures before a state of emergency.

Ø Unconfined livestock can usually take care of themselves during floods. Do not let them become trapped in low-lying pens. A number of safety precautions, as outlined at right, can be taken for animals housed in barns during a flood. Above all, be sure animals are evacuated before floodwaters enter barns and other enclosed livestock areas. Animals sometimes refuse to leave during a rapid rise of water and may drown.

Standby Electric Generators

A SOURCE OF EMERGENCY POWER FOR FARMERS

TYPES OF GENERATORS

Standby generators are either engine driven or tractor driven. Either type can be stationary or portable. Engine driven units can be either manual or automatic start. Gasoline-, LP gas- (bottled gas) and diesel-fueled engines are available.

Generators must provide the same type of power at the same voltage and frequency as that supplied by power lines. This is usually 120/240 volt, single phase, 60 cycle alternating current (AC). An air-cooled engine is often used for generators up to 15 kilowatts. A liquid-cooled engine is necessary for generators larger than 15 kilowatts. Engine capacity of 2 to 2 1/4 hp with the proper drive system must be available for each 1,000 watts of generator output.

SIZE OF GENERATORS

A full-load system will handle the entire farmstead load. Automatic engine-powered, full-load systems will begin to furnish power immediately, or up to 30 seconds after power is off. Smaller and less expensive part-load systems may be enough to handle essential equipment during an emergency.

Power-take-off (PTO) generators are about half as costly as engine-operated units. Under a part-load system, only the most essential equipment is operated at one time. For most farms, this type of system is adequate, provided the generator is sized to start the largest motor. For example, the milk cooler or ventilation fan would need to be operated continuously, but the operation of the silo unloader and mechanical feeding system could be postponed until the milking chores are completed. PTO units can be mounted on a trailer.

INSTALLATION

Wiring and equipment must be installed in accordance with the National Electrical Code, local ordinances and the requirements of your power supplier. It is essential that you have the proper equipment for disconnecting the generator from public utility lines. Most companies require the installation of a double-pole double-throw transfer switch or its equivalent for this purpose. Check with your electrician or power supply representative for installation, installation instructions and inspection.

Ø An emergency source of power is important for any farm with mechanically ventilated production facilities, bulk milk handling equipment, mechanical feeding equipment or facilities requiring constant and continuous heat (such as brooders). On such a farm, a standby electric generator is a good investment, possibly preventing costly losses during a power failure.

Ø During disasters such as flood or tornado, relief agencies may provide generators to farmers on an emergency basis.

LOCATION AND SAFETY FEATURES

¨ Large engine generators should be located in a building, preferably a heated building.

¨ Inlet and outlet air ducts must be large enough to carry off excess heat. They should be open at least a half a square foot for each 1,000 watts of generator capacity.

¨ Combustion fumes must be carried outdoors safely. Exhaust pipes must be at least 6 inches from combustible material.

OPERATION

An automatic standby unit should start automatically when power fails, and stop when power is restored. When using an engine-driven generator with a manual start, or when using a tractor driven unit, follow this procedure when power fails:

¨ Call your power supplier and advise them of the conditions.

¨ Turn off or disconnect all electrical equipment.

¨ Position the tractor or engine for belt of PTO drive.

¨ Start the unit and bring the generator up to proper speed (1,800 or 3,600 rps.). Check on arrangement to carry off exhaust fumes. Be sure there is no danger of fire. The voltmeter will indicate when the generator is ready to carry the load.

¨ Put the transfer switch in the generator position.

¨ Start the largest electrical motor first, adding other loads when each is up to operating speed. Do not add too much too fast. If the generator cuts out for any reason, repeat the second, third and fourth steps above.

¨ Check the voltmeter frequently. If voltage falls below 200 volts for 240-volt service or below 100 volts for 120-volt service, reduce the load on the generator by turning off some electrical equipment.

¨ When commercial power is restored, put the transfer switch in normal power position. Then stop the standby unit.

MAINTENANCE

¨ Keep the unit clean and in good running order at all times so it will be ready for immediate use. Dust and dirt accumulations on the motor can cause it to overheat when operated.

¨ Follow maintenance instructions in manufacturer's manual. A short operation at set intervals will keep the engine in good operating condition. Regularly scheduled warm-ups are necessary to keep a standby engine in working order.

Avoiding Groundwater Damage to Homes

REMEDIES FOR HOMEOWNERS

CONSIDER YOUR RESOURCES

Sound advice should be your first priority when groundwater flooding is a problem. Expertise can come from a variety of sources.

¨ Local resources include your local emergency government office, building inspectors, insurance agents (if you have appropriate insurance), county Extension agents and the Home Builders Association. All have access to technical assistance, publications and possible sources of financial aid.

¨ Financial assistance may be available through your local emergency government office. This may also include temporary housing and crisis counseling.

a) Grants and low-interest loans may be available in cases of regional disasters. b) Check with your insurance agent to determine whether your homeowner's insurance covers any of the damages. Groundwater, surface water and floodwater damages usually are not covered by homeowner's insurance. Your agent may have a rider available for groundwater flooding. Homes located in floodplains subject to surface water flooding are eligible for federal flood insurance.

¨ Contractors can help you determine the nature and extent of your damages and what remediation options are appropriate for your situation.

a) A waterproofing contractor may be able to correct the problem if you simply need to stop minor nuisance flooding. b) A general contractor may be necessary if you have damages to your home and need more substantial repairs and corrective measures. General contractors can arrange for the services of various specialists. (See the fact sheet, "Hiring a Contractor After a Disaster," for more information.)

YOUR OPTIONS

The severity and frequency of groundwater flooding will in part dictate the best solution. The following options parallel increasing severity of groundwater flooding:

¨ Raising appliances, furniture and fixtures. In cases where groundwater flooding is a minor nuisance that amounts to little more than wet walls and small streams across the basement floor to a drain, solutions may include:

Ø Groundwater flooding can cause many problems for homeowners. Structural damage, sewer system back-ups and damaged appliances are three of the most distressing consequences. Fortunately, there are some remedies. They vary in scope, expense and results, just as homeowners vary in their expectations and resources. a) Raising or blocking up appliances, furniture and other items that may be damaged by direct contact with the water for an extended time; b) Installing a false floor over the basement slab. This allows water to drain under the false floor to a drain or sump. c) Installing a surface drainage system around the perimeter of the basement floor. This method channels water from the walls to a drain or sump for removal.

¨ Relieving water pressure against walls and the floor. Some form of drainage is necessary when cracks occur because of water pressure.

a) If the basement or foundation does not already have drain tile installed, consider an excavation of the home exterior to allow for waterproofing of the walls and the installation of washed stone (gravel) and drain tile. Drain tile can divert water away from the house if there is a slope, or accommodate a sump pump system as noted below. b) Internal drainage is another option if excavation is not possible or convenient. Washed stone and drain tile are installed around the interior perimeter of the basement footing. This requires subfloor installation and trenching. c) Sump pumps are a necessary part of the internal drainage system unless the interior tile can be connected to exterior tile that will drain away from the house. Similarly, sump pumps may be a necessary part of external drain tile systems if water does not drain away from the house naturally.

¨ Filling the basement. This option can eliminate the groundwater problem, but the trade-off is the loss of a full basement. If the groundwater level in a basement is only 1 or 2 feet, one option is to pour a new floor in at a higher level, leaving a crawl space in the basement. The original floor needs to be broken first, so that water pressure can be relieved. Fill dirt is brought in and the new floor poured. Drainage under the new floor also is recommended. In more severe cases, the basement may have to be completely abandoned.

¨ Rebuilding septic systems and wells. If septic systems and wells have been compromised, the systems should be rebuilt following modern guidelines for high groundwater areas. There may be added expenses related to closing or removing portions of existing systems that have failed.

¨ Raising or relocating the house. This is the most expensive option. It is the best long-term solution when the building integrity is threatened and utilities must be shut off. In some cases, it may be the only reason-able option to avoid property damages and lower property values.

Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements

GETTING OUT WATER AND PREVENTING FUTURE PROBLEMS

PUMPING

For safety reasons, do not use an electric pump powered by your own electrical system. Instead, use a gas-powered pump or one connected to an outside line. Fire departments in some communities may help with pumping services.

Pumping flooded basements too soon or too quickly may do more damage. Water in the basement helps brace the walls against the extra pressure of waterlogged soil outside. If water is pumped out too soon, walls may be pushed in or floors pushed up. To help prevent this kind of structural damage:

¨ Remove about a third of the water each day. Watch for signs of structural failing.

¨ If the outside water level rises again after the day's pumping, start at the new water line.

¨ Don't rush the pumping; the soil may be very slow to drain.

Delaying the pumping will not damage whatever is submerged in the basement further.

CLEANING

After water has been pumped from the basement, shovel out the mud and debris while it is still moist. Hose down walls to remove as much silt as possible before it dries. Floors and walls may need sanitizing, particularly if sewage has entered the basement. Scrub walls and floors with a disinfecting solution of 1 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water.

Oil stains caused by overturned or damaged oil tanks also may be a problem following basement flooding. Commercial products, available from fuel-oil suppliers, will help neutralize fuel oil. The products come in powder form or an aerosol spray for hard-to-reach places. To remove oil stains and destroy odor: wipe up excess oil, shake or spray product on the spot according to manufacturer's directions, let it set, then sweep it up.

INSPECTION AND REPAIR

Before beginning repairs, make a thorough inspection of supporting columns, beams, walls and floors. Unless you have structural expertise, hire a contractor to make a professional survey. (Consider joining with neighbors for a group-rate inspection.) Repairs may extend to the following:

Before you enter a flooded basement, take time to:

1) Turn off the electricity, preferably at the meter;

2) Check outside cellar walls for possible cave-ins, evidence of structural damage or other hazards;

3) Turn off gas or fuel service valves; and

4) Open doors and windows or use blowers to force fresh air into the basement.

¨ Buckled walls. Signs of buckling include horizontal cracking and areas that have moved out of vertical alignment. When this condition is minor, you need not repair the wall immediately. However, any noticeably buckled wall will eventually collapse from normal ground pressures and seasonal temperature changes. When buckling has seriously weakened the wall, the damaged parts should be rebuilt immediately. Pilasters (vertical reinforcements) may need to be constructed into walls over 15 feet long.

¨ Settled walls and footings are indicated by vertical cracks either in small areas or throughout the structure. Repairs are difficult without special equipment. Contact a reliable contractor for this work.

¨ Heaved floors are those that have not returned to their original level or have cracked badly. The floor may have to be removed and a new floor constructed. If a floor is badly cracked, but has returned to its original level, a new floor may be placed over the old one. A vapor barrier should be added between the two floors. The new floor should be at least 2 inches thick.

In houses without basements, the area below the floor may be completely filled with mud. Shovel out the mud as soon as possible to avoid rotting joists or foundation wood.

Home Clean-Up and Sanitation

SAFELY CLEANING A FLOOD-DAMAGED HOME

SET PRIORITIES AND KEEP SAFETY IN MIND

As you begin clean up, focus on accomplishing the most important tasks first. Resist over-exerting yourself.

¨ Give special attention to cleaning children's toys, cribs, playpens and play equipment. Boil any items a toddler or baby might put in his or her mouth. Discard stuffed toys, waterlogged toys and non-cleanable items.

¨ Keep chemicals used for disinfecting and poisons used for insect and rodent control out of children's reach.

¨ Wear protective clothing on legs, arms, feet and hands while cleaning up debris.

GENERAL RULES FOR CLEANING AND DISINFECTING

¨ Wash exposed skin frequently in purified water. Wear rubber gloves to protect against contamination and skin irritation.

¨ Try using a pump-up garden sprayer or hose to remove layers of mud from hard surfaces.

¨ Scrub with a household cleaner/detergent solution and a brush to remove remaining surface oil. Rinse with clean water.

¨ Wash with a disinfectant, such as chlorine bleach, pine oil or a phenolic product, such as Lysol. Remember, a product is considered to be a “disinfectant” only if it is labeled as such. Rinse well.

¨ Dry items thoroughly to prevent mildew growth.

¨ Sanitize dishes, cooking utensils and food preparation areas before using them (see fact sheet, “Disinfecting Dishes, Cookware and Utensils”).

REMOVING MOLD AND MILDEW

¨ Brush off mold and mildew growth on household items outdoors to prevent scattering of spores in the house.

¨ Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew. Then wash surfaces with a detergent/household cleaner and water solution.

Ø Clean-up priorities will vary depending upon the kind and seriousness of damage to your home. But assuming major concerns such as structural safety, basement flooding, and electrical and water systems have been addressed, clean-up can begin inside.